Observation and Modeling of the Equilibrium Slope Response of a High-Energy Meso-Macrotidal Sandy Beach

Beach slope is a critical parameter to, e.g., beach safety, wave reflection at the coast and longshore transport rate. However, it usually considered as time-invariant profile-average parameter. Here, we apply state-of-the-art equilibrium model to hindcast variability from time scales of days years high-energy meso-macrotidal sandy Truc Vert, southwest France. We use 9 bimonthly surveys compute series different elevations. Results show that exhibits an response with contrasting behaviors along two distinct areas profile. From 0 2 m above mean sea level, which located under berm crest, predominantly storm scale observed. The steepens low energy waves, explaining up 40% observed variability. In contrast, 2.5 4 waves. Within this region profile, increases upwards seasonal (~2.5 m) (~4 m), 65% Such are found be enforced by dynamics developing end winter early autumn, providing new perspectives predict on beaches.